Podere Il Casale: A Pecorino Toscano Cheese Tour in Pienza, Italy
Taking a food tour in Italy is like discovering the secrets behind some of the world's most tantalizing cuisine. If you love Italian food (and who doesn't), food and wine tours in Italy are a great way to go deeper than just eating great Italian food - to learning how it's made and the tradition behind it. We've taken several food tours in Bologna and loved them, especially one we did in the historic city, and another in the gastronomic region north of Bologna. So we were excited to visit a local cheese producer on a Tuscany food tour with our friends Alessio and Arianna of Km Zero Tours, who specialize in slow travel.
A Foodie Pilgrimage
A little off the beaten path in Pienza sits Podere Il Casale, along the 10th century pilgrimage roads that once connected Rome and Jerusalem with the small towns in the Italian countryside. Today, the rural area not far from Florence draws foodies and wine lovers from all over the world looking to discover Italy's best: stunning scenic drives, world-class wines, and authentic foods, like pecorino di Pienza, the famous pecorino toscano cheese this region is known for. Pienza is located between Siena and Montepulciano in southern Tuscany, not far from the picturesque town of Monticchiello. The 65 hectare farm and restaurant at Podere Il Casale have been a labor of love for owners Sandra and Ulisse, originally from Switzerland, since they started in 1991.
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Podere il Casale
The first residents to greet us at Podere il Casale were the crowing peacocks. Several of them strutted around displaying those incredible turquoise and green colors. The centerpiece of the property, a 600-year-old stone farmhouse where the owners live, cook, and service the restaurant, is backdropped by the jaw-dropping Val d'Orcia, the iconic Tuscan landscape you’re familiar with even if you’ve never been here before. Today the valley is a UNESCO world heritage area and so picturesque it’s easy to see why producers chose this area to film scenes from Gladiator nearby, among other movies filmed in Italy.
The farm produces Tuscan pecorino cheese, a milder and less salty pecorino than the sharper, aged pecorino romano you might be used to. It's one of the regional foods Italy is known for. The farm is completely organic and the on-site restaurant features much of what is produced here and locally. Fresh homemade pasta, honey, cheeses, wine, extra virgin olive oil, saffron, and white truffles can all be enjoyed at the restaurant or purchased to take along.
We met Sandra who led us on a tour of the farm, a property she and Ulisse started in 1992 with sheep, goats, chickens, and peacocks. To ensure that everything they produce is chemical-free - especially the cheeses - only homeopathic veterinary care is used for all their livestock.
Six large guard dogs including some Russian herders protect the other animals from predators like wolves and foxes, but they still have problems with the wild boar. Apparently the boar have a sweet tooth and can devastate a grape crop once they’ve ripened.
Making Pecorino Toscano
At the heart of keeping sheep and goats was Ulisse’s desire to learn cheesemaking, which he learned from local folks who’d been doing it for decades. Now he produces 20-30 different cheeses depending on the time of year. All of his cheeses are made from milk produced here from the 200 sheep and 80 goats. We found it so interesting that the cheeses can have different flavors month to month depending on what the animals are eating. Their cheeses are pecorinos from sheep’s milk, caprinos from goat’s milk, and a wonderful creamy ricotta. The cheeses are moved between coolers as they age. Some are cleaned with salt and water so they won’t turn into a blue cheese. Others are aged using natural mold instead of paraffin. And several are aged with aromatics like black walnut leaves, grape leaves, or rosemary and basil. They all looked and smelled delicious.
The production here is impressive and all done on site - from milking in their professional dairy to finishing in their modern cheese aging and storage facility. We learned a bit of food history as well about Tuscan bread. It seems that at one time salt was so valuable it was only used for cheese making and preserving food, but never in bread. This tradition continues to this day in this part of Tuscany. So if you're surprised that the Tuscan-style bread you’re eating here is a little bland for your palette, this is why. Thankfully, this was a Tuscany cheese tour, not bread!
Tasting Pienza Cheese
Our favorite part of the day was relaxing al fresco under the pergola enjoying some fresh baked bread with samplings of cheese and jams, like a scene straight from Under the Tuscan Sun. Sandra explained each of the cheeses one by one and just how they were made so you could taste the difference from cow and sheep milk, and even the subtleties of what the animals were grazing on at that time of year.
We started with a fresh sheep cheese, a soft pecorino cheese aged for only one month. Then each cheese that followed was aged longer and tasted very different. There was a semifinished sheep cheese, aged for 2-5 months, with a very nice delicate aroma and a bit harder. Next was a sheep cheese with a heavier rind, much harder and stronger in both aroma and taste and aged at least 5 months. My favorite. The hard goat cheese is aged for a minimum of 5 months and was very different than the others but delicious. The sampling also included raw milk ricotta, sweet and smooth, and a soft cheese similar to American cream cheese but made from goat’s milk. Each cheese was accompanied by honey or one of Sandra’s jams which are all made here with fresh herbs and spices. All of this paired nicely with a soft young white wine made from grapes grown here, La Sibilla.
A Slow Food Tradition
There’s a lot happening at Podere Il Casale depending on the time of year you visit and it all revolves around the slow food movement, an approach to small scale production that’s sustainable, produces good food, and protects the local environment at the same time - all values behind the slow food and Tuscany slow travel movement. Cheesemaking is the essence of slow food - no amount of rushing or cutting corners will produce the kind of cheese they're making here and throughout Italy. The farm also runs popular Tuscany cooking classes and garden events featuring pick-you-own veggies.
Sandra and Ulisse also support Terra Madre, a network of small scale producers dedicated to farm-to-table sustainability and biodiversity. You can also sign-up to watch and learn cheesemaking as they’ve been making it here for centuries. And if you don’t mind getting a little dirty, you can help milk the sheep. That’s definitely on our list for next time. That, and eating more cheese!
IF YOU GO
Km Zero Tours can arrange an in-depth tour here, or a full schedule of interesting local producer tours throughout Tuscany over the course of a few days. They're slow travel experts.
Podere Il Casale - via Podere Il Casale 64, 53026 Pienza (Siena), Italy
Podere il Casale organic ristorante serves dinner nightly in the intimate indoor dining room or on the beautiful panoramic terrace overlooking the Val d'Orcia
Guided farm tours are available in Italian, English, German and French
8 campsite pitches are available at the farm for a truly unique and rustic experience
One of the most interesting and scenic Tuscany food tours we've taken
Tuscany cooking classes and garden events featuring pick-you-own veggies